Chrome Oxide Green

Chrome Oxide Green - a Vallejo loose pigment

In modeling a green pigment has a different task from brown and gray dusts. It is not used for dust but for organic grime and for chemical weathering: for coatings of algae at the waterline, for moss in the corners of abandoned buildings, for the greenish patina of copper and brass surfaces and for the places where damp stays a long time. Chrome oxide green is at the same time muted, not bright, and it is precisely that which allows it to come across as a natural growth and not as a coat of paint.

Use

• Lay the green pigment on in a targeted way and in a small amount. An overdone area of green looks unnatural on a model at once, unlike brown dusts, which forgive more.
• Look for the places where damp would really stand: lower edges, joints, around drains, the lower part of a hull, the shaded sides of buildings.
• It is laid on dry with a soft brush onto a matte ground and fixed with a binder for pigments, with mineral spirits or with a fine overspray of matte varnish.
• Mixing it with a brown or black pigment gives a darker muddy shade, which for algae and standing water is often more convincing than a pure green.
• On a diorama the pigment can be used away from the model as well, in the joints of paving, on stone and on wood, where it suggests the age of a surface.

Who the pigment is for

For builders of dioramas, ship models and neglected equipment who work with damp and abandoned scenes. It comes into its own with modelers of historical architecture and industrial buildings too. On a clean, operationally maintained machine without damp corners it will stay unused.

Do not breathe the fine powder in, do not blow into the pot and do not work in a draft; for longer work use a respirator and wash your hands afterward. The volume of the package and the shade are given on the label of the pot.