Burnishing Agents

Blackening agents chemically darken bare metal to a deep, matt tone. They are used on photo-etched parts, brass barrels, metal tracks and small metal fittings, where raw shine instantly gives away that a part was added. Unlike paint, nothing is laid on top: the colour forms by reaction within the surface itself, so the finest etched detail stays open and nothing can flake off when a part is bent.

Below is the procedure, including the degreasing step without which the reaction simply will not start, and a note on which metals respond.

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VMSVMS.TC04

Black Track Pro 2.0 Extra

VMS Black Track Pro 2.0 Extra is a chemical product for blackening (weathering) the metal tracks of models, from the premium VMS range. It creates a dark base for a realistic steel look.
In stock
6.76 €
MASTERMM-001

Master Blackening Agent for photo etched parts and brass barrels

The chemical solution Master Blackening Agent (50 ml) for blackening and patinating photo-etched parts and brass barrels - it creates a dark oxide layer with a realistic metal look.
Currently unavailable
8.36 €
AK interactiveAK174

Photo Etch Varnishing Liquid

A liquid modeling preparation intended for photo-etched parts, the manufacturer's part number AK174. It is applied to finished photo-etched details; the exact procedure and the working time are stated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
In stock
7.96 €
AK interactiveAK159

Metal Burnishing Fluid

Metal Burnishing Fluid is a chemical fluid for blackening and patinating metal parts, above all metal tracks, from AK Interactive. It is not a paint or a kit.
In stock
7.96 €
AMMO of Mig JimenezA.MIG-2021

PHOTOETCH BURNISHING FLUID

AMMO Photoetch Burnishing Fluid is a chemical fluid for blackening photo-etched brass parts and turned metal barrels.
In stock
7.96 €
AMMO of Mig JimenezA.MIG-2020

METALLIC TRACKS BURNISHING FLUID

The chemical liquid AMMO Metallic Tracks Burnishing Fluid - for chemically blackening metal tracks; it is not a paint. A 100 ml package.
In stock
7.96 €

Why painting the metal is not the same

Photo-etched parts carry detail measured in hundredths of a millimetre. Every coat of paint partly fills it, and on fine mesh, straps and lettering it vanishes completely. A burnishing fluid does not have this problem, because the colour comes from a reaction in the surface — thickness is unchanged and relief untouched.

The second reason is mechanical. Paint grips smooth metal poorly and cracks when etch is folded. A chemically darkened surface bends with the part, because it is not a layer sitting on top but part of the metal.

How to do it

Degreasing is half the job

On a greasy surface the reaction either will not happen or comes out blotchy. Degrease the parts carefully and from that moment handle them with tweezers, not fingers. A fingerprint will show in the result.

Working and watching

Brush the fluid on or dip the part into it. Darkening happens in front of you, so you stay in control: the moment the tone is right, rinse with water and the reaction stops. Longer immersion gives a darker, flatter surface, a brief dip only a hint of patina.

Finishing

Let the part dry completely after rinsing. The surface is often slightly powdery; a gentle wipe with a dry cloth evens it out and brings the tone up. Where a part will be handled, sealing it with a thin matt coat is worth the extra step.

Which metals respond

These products are formulated for particular metals — most often brass, copper and bronze, the materials etched frets and turned barrels are made from. On stainless steel, aluminium or tinned parts the reaction may not happen at all. Always test on a piece of fret you will not use.

What goes with blackening

The remaining auxiliary products are under modelling chemicals. A blackened fret blends into a model at once — it is among the quickest ways to stop a metal part reading as a foreign object.

Frequently asked questions in category Burnishing Agents

Téměř vždy kvůli mastnotě. Díly je nutné pečlivě odmastit a od té chvíle s nimi manipulovat jen pinzetou. Otisk prstu se na výsledném povrchu spolehlivě projeví.

Nejčastěji na mosaz, měď a bronz, ze kterých jsou lepty a soustružené díly. Na nerezu či hliníku reakce nemusí nastat. Vyzkoušejte to na odřezku rámečku leptu.

Ano, tmavý matný povrch je dobrý podklad pro barvu i pigmenty. Mnoho modelářů ale nechává kov tak, jak je, a pouze jej uzavře tenkou vrstvou matného laku.
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