BAN015 semi light hex head flange bolt 0,8mm

The threshold beyond which you manage without optics

The eight-tenth diameter is the turning point of the whole selection. Below it work is practically impossible without a magnifier; from it upward you can grip the head with tweezers by eye alone and see whether it has seated level. Anyone who wants to find out whether this kind of detailing suits them should start right here.

What it calls for

A pin vise with a bit of matching gauge, tweezers with straight tips and good judgment in metering the glue. Nothing else. That is exactly why this is the size I recommend as a first purchase even to a modeler who has so far only glued parts from a kit and has no experience with metal accessories.

Where it makes more sense to go elsewhere

If you are building a model on which dozens of small joints should be distinguishable, eight tenths will look coarse and thinner grades will serve better. And if, on the contrary, you want the heads to be visible from two steps away from the bench, go eleven or twelve tenths of a millimeter higher.

What it suits

The mounting of the engine in the frame, exhaust system joints, shock absorber feet, clutch covers. In 1:12 scale it corresponds roughly to a ten millimeter bolt on the real machine, which is a common size on a motorcycle chassis.

A note on planning

This grade is also the lower limit of the second range package. Anyone who suspects they will need the heavier sizes too will spare themselves ordering twice by reaching straight for the whole range.

One more practical thing: before work, tip the heads out onto a piece of light card and take only as many as you are about to install. The remainder spills out of the bag unexpectedly easily.