Dirty Red 17ml

Dirty Red - AK interactive 3rd Generation acrylic paint

A bottled acrylic with a water-thinnable binder. The shade is a red someone has taken the freshness out of: flatter, murkier, with a share of brown and gray. That is exactly how a red surface looks after years outdoors - agricultural and construction machinery, freight cars, fire extinguishers and hydrants, sheet metal roofs, old tractors and ship hulls above the waterline.

Which surfaces it belongs on and how it behaves

Subdued shades have a great advantage over pure colors: they work even over a darker base and do not call for a white primer, because there is nothing in them to light up. They work best as a second coat over a pure red - do not spray it across the whole area but discontinuously over edges, panels and surfaces exposed to the sun, so that the aging comes out uneven. It works the other way round as a correction too: add a drop to a red that is too loud and the shade ages at once. Mix it with brown for rust, with gray for fading. Combine it only with acrylics from the same line, not with oils and lacquers.

Spraying with an airbrush

• Prepare mixed shades in reserve in an empty bottle - you cannot mix enough of them in the airbrush cup and you will not hit exactly the same tone a second time.
• Thin to the consistency of milk, and even thinner for uneven aging, and spray from a greater distance.
• Make the transitions with light passes, not with one heavy coat.
• Flush the airbrush between each mixed tone, otherwise the shades will run together.
• When the work is done, clean the nozzle and the needle while the acrylic is still wet.

Who it is for

For modelers of civilian and agricultural machinery, for diorama builders and for anyone who builds machines in working, not museum, condition.

Store in a tightly closed bottle out of reach of children. Ventilate the room while spraying and use respiratory protection. Do not pour paint residues down the drain.