Hobby color - tmavě zelená

A muted dark green

Dark green tones form the backbone of camouflage finishes from the Second World War to the present day. They appear on tracked and wheeled vehicles, on the upper surfaces of aircraft, on crates, jerrycans and on equipment meant to disappear into vegetation. A shade of this kind suits everywhere the green is meant to be earthy and inconspicuous rather than fresh.

Large areas and apparent darkness

On a model a dark finish looks even darker than the real thing would warrant: detail is lost in it and the surface looks flat. Modelers get around this by adding a little of a lighter tone to the shade and using the lightened mix to brighten the centers of panels, while leaving the original color at the engraving and in the corners. The result looks three-dimensional without the basic character of the finish changing.

Working with the paint

The binder is thinnable with water, so spraying does without strong fumes and the tools rinse clean shortly after work. Stir the contents thoroughly before use, because dark pigments settle to the bottom. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy one; then overcoat the flat surface with a gloss varnish if you want to apply decals.

The shade goes well with pigments and glazes for the final soiling of the model.

Transitions between camouflage colors

Patterns are either softly sprayed or hard-edged, and the difference between them shows at first glance. A soft transition comes from lower pressure and bringing the nozzle closer, while a sharp edge is made with a rope of tacky putty laid just above the surface, which leaves a barely perceptible hint of softness beneath it.

Do not mix the amount you need in more than one go. A mixed shade cannot be hit exactly a second time, and the difference between two batches shows up precisely on large areas.