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BAN009 minus truss screw 1,0mm

A full millimeter in diameter, a head of low wide shape with a slot, for the visible joints on motorcycle models.

Manufacturer BANON DESIGN
Product EAN9791111870955

Responsibility details are not available.

10.36 €
8.56 € without VAT
In stock
Free shipping on orders over 1,000 czk in czech republic Personal pickup in Prostějov 14-day returns

About product

A round millimeter

One whole millimeter is the boundary from which a joint is legible to the naked eye even from the ordinary distance of a display cabinet. Where stronger sections are clamped together on a real machine, that is at the mounting of the frame, at the exhaust brackets or at the radiator flange, this step gives a finished model the weight it needs.

Spacing and distance from the edge

As the diameter grows, the question stops being whether you will drill the hole and becomes where. Between two neighboring heads leave a free gap of at least the width of one of them, otherwise they merge into a single block. Stand off from the edge of the part by at least half a diameter, so that a wall is left with something to hold on to.

  • a diameter of 1.0 millimeter
  • a flat wide shape of head, one straight slot
  • for the stronger sections of the frame, for brackets and flanges
  • keep a gap of roughly one width between the heads
  • an accessory part; it is neither a kit nor a model

Regularity matters more than accuracy

The eye spots an irregular spacing sooner than an error in absolute position. It therefore pays to make a simple template from a strip of paper tape with the points marked and to stick it over the part; all the recesses then come out at the same spacing. This trick takes a few minutes and replaces measuring with calipers on a curved surface, where nothing can be measured exactly anyway.

Once they are fitted, look at the model for a moment from above and from the side. A tilt you cannot see in your hand is conspicuous in a view along the surface, and as long as the glue has not dried it can be straightened with the tip of a toothpick.

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FAQ

A gap of at least the width of one head works well. With a smaller distance the neighboring joints merge optically and the detail loses its point.

Leave yourself at least half a diameter of material. A narrower rim breaks out while the element is being put in and repairing an edge tends to be more laborious than the assembly itself.

With a strip of paper tape with the points marked, stuck over the part. On a curved surface that is more reliable than measuring with calipers.

Look along the surface, not from above. A tilt of a few degrees is obvious from that angle and while the glue is setting it can be straightened with a toothpick.

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