How to choose a diameter
By what is going into the hole. If you are gluing in wire or tube, measure it and pick a bit of the same diameter or a few hundredths larger — a tight seat holds better than adhesive flooded into an oversized hole. For a through hole that will be seen, follow the scale: what looks natural at 1:32 reads as a crater at 1:72.
The types you'll find
High-speed steel bits
The standard for styrene and soft materials. They have more spring, so they snap less readily, but they dull faster on hard material. For ordinary building they are the sensible choice.
Carbide bits
Harder and sharper, they hold an edge far longer and handle resin, cured filler and metal. They are also more brittle — they do not forgive a sideways bend and break without warning. Work square and never lever with them.
Graduated sets
The most practical way to buy. You have the whole ladder to hand and are not ordering single sizes halfway through a build. The fine diameters get used most, so it pays to top those up individually as well.
Countersinks and grinding heads
A tapered tool breaks the edge of a hole and creates a recess — typically at the mouth of a nozzle or exhaust, where the rim should look thin. Grinding heads open a hole into a shape a round bit cannot produce.
How not to break them
Three rules. Always mark the spot with a dimple, or the tool skates across a smooth surface. Clamp the bit with the shortest free length into a pin vice. And do not push — a fine diameter cuts by itself and pressure only jams it. For powered drilling keep the speed low, because softened styrene welds to the flutes and locks the bit solid.
What goes with drill bits
For larger diameters in thin material, a tool from punch and die sets is usually faster.