What you'll find here
German Type VII and Type IX boats, Japanese and American wartime submarines, and Soviet and modern Western nuclear types including ballistic missile boats. Most kits offer a full hull with a stand plus a waterline option, so the same box can become a shelf model or part of a seascape.
Where the detail comes from
Etched and turned parts
At 1:350 a moulded railing is roughly a scale half-metre thick. Photo-etched submarine sets replace railings, casing gratings and periscope shears with brass of a believable thickness, and turned brass barrels, periscopes and torpedo sets handle everything that needs to be truly round. These two ranges are aimed squarely at this scale.
Paint carries the rest
With fittings this small, the finish does most of the talking. A controlled base from model paints, a crisp anti-fouling line and restrained wear from weathering products read far better than heavy effects: at 20 centimetres, oversized streaking turns into noise.
Think about the base early
A 1:350 boat is small enough that a sea base is a weekend project rather than a commitment, and a waterline hull set into resin water hides the one thing you cannot fix — the bottom of the hull seam.
Waterline or full hull
Most boxings let you choose, and the decision changes the build. A waterline hull removes the lower seam entirely and sits straight into a sea base; a full hull shows the propellers, planes and anti-fouling that are the most interesting part of any submarine. Decide before you glue, because the lower hull usually locks the assembly together.
Scales nearby
All scales are listed under submarine model kits.