These are the tools that turn one and the same compound into paving, brickwork or a churchyard wall: silicone and acrylic moulds for setts, block paving and grass pavers, texture rollers, stencils and helper tapes. Instead of carving every stone you press out a whole panel in a few minutes, and you can have it in as many copies as the scene needs.
How to work with moulds, what to fill them with and why a casting has to cool before it comes out is set out below.
AIRBRUSH STENCILS
15.16 €
Airbrush šablóna – stredné fľaky – Airbrush Stencils – 110 mm x 70 mm
7.96 €
Airbrush šablóna – malé fľaky – Airbrush Stencils – 110 mm x 70 mm
7.96 €
Airbrush Stencils
5.96 €
Set “1” – 3 airbrush Stencils
14.36 €
SET “5” – 2 AIRBRUSH ŠABLÓNY – AIRBRUSH STENCILS MEDIUM – 110 MM x 70 MM
14.36 €
The principle is simple: fresh compound goes into a mould or under a roller, the pattern transfers into it, and once it has set you have a panel to cut to whatever shape you need. Acrylic moulds have accurate straight dividers and suit regular patterns - hexagons, octagons, block paving, ordinary brick. Silicone moulds are flexible, so even a deeply undercut casting releases, and they are used for irregular stone, concrete and themed scenery. Texture rollers are the fastest of the three: roll the compound out flat and one pass gives you setts or a stone wall across the full width.
Modelling plaster is the usual choice because it flows well and, once dry, carves and breaks into convincing rubble. Polymer compounds and epoxy putty take longer to cure, but the casting is either flexible or mechanically tough. If all you want is the surface, press a pliable compound into the mould and lift it straight back out.
The commonest mistake is haste. Plaster looks firm after a few minutes but is still working, and edges snap off as you turn it out. Give it time, treat the mould beforehand with a release agent or water with a drop of detergent, and the casting comes away without a fight.
The same sett panel looks entirely different after a wash into the joints, after dusting, and after being partly broken up. Make three at once - one whole for the street, one broken for craters and one for rubble. It costs nothing extra and saves you a return trip to the mould halfway through building the scene.
Rinse moulds while the compound is still damp - dried plaster is very hard to get out of fine relief, and every trace left behind prints into the next casting. A soft brush from the modelling tools range is what you want for that.
